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Do You Know Your Sunscreen? Know This About SPF Numbers and Usage

May 29, 2024

Do You Know Your Sunscreen? Know This About SPF Numbers and Usage

As the days grow warmer in the northern hemisphere and everyone’s packing for sunny holidays, I have an important question for you:

Are you choosing your sunscreen right?

Like many people, I didn’t think too much of this before. I thought you just slapped on some sunscreen and got on with your day. That is, until I read from the Canadian Skin Cancer Foundation that 80,000 skin cancer cases are discovered in Canada every single year! I shudder just recalling this.

What’s more, I realized that sunscreen is so often misunderstood and misused. One scientific poll found that less than half of people understood how sunscreen works and what SPF numbers mean. So it got me thinking, Am I choosing and using sunscreen right?

I found important info that was new to me – and could be surprising to you, too.

How Does Sunscreen Work? A Simple Explainer

Sunscreen lotions and creams work through either of two ways: deflecting the sun’s ultraviolet (UV) rays, or absorbing these rays before they get in our skin.

  • UV deflecting by physical ingredients – “Physical” ingredients in sunscreen literally block and deflect the sun’s rays. Think of them as teeny-tiny physical umbrellas that sit on the surface of your skin. These ingredients are typically minerals like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, both of which are naturally occurring. Because of its UV-blocking power, this type of sunscreen is also called sunblock.
  • UV absorption by chemical ingredients – Other sunscreen products have active chemicals that absorb rather than block UV rays. Common examples of these chemicals are avobenzone, oxybenzone, octocrylene, and ecamsule.

So which sunscreen type is better for you? Our answer, in general, would be physical sunscreen. Dermatologists note that while both types have similar efficacy, physical sunscreens are less likely to irritate your skin. Plus, various research groups found that chemical sunscreens may be absorbed into our bloodstream and cause cancer! Talk about counterintuitive.

Of course, you should consult your own dermatologist if you’re concerned about sunscreen ingredients and how they might affect you. You can also read our section below on the potential dangers of certain sunscreens.

One thing is certain though: using sunscreen is essential to prevent sunburns and decrease the risk of skin cancer. It’s now just a matter of choosing your sunblock carefully and using it properly.

Sunscreen Cheatsheet: What Those Terms and Labels Mean

So you’re at the store trying to pick the right sunscreen, checking their labels. You see words like “broad spectrum,” “UVA,” and “UVB.” Do they matter? Absolutely. Here’s your quick-tionary to what sunscreen labels mean:

  • Broad spectrum – This is a type of sunscreen that protects from both UVA and UVB radiation. Some sunscreens that are not broad spectrum only shield you from UVB rays. (See below for more on UVA and UVB.)
  • SPF – Stands for sun protection factor, which is a measure of how well the sunscreen protects from UVB radiation. The higher the SPF number, the greater the amount of solar radiation it fends off. SPF numbers are not indicators of how long you can stay in the sun, but how much sun exposure your skin can get before reddening. For instance, midday sun exposure is greater than late-afternoon sun exposure.
    Note also that SPF numbers are not on a linear scale – for example, SPF 30 doesn’t mean double the SPF 15. Read our “Surprising Facts” section below for more on this.
  • UV – Stands for ultraviolet, referring to a type of sun radiation that can harm human skin. There are three main sub-types: UVA, UVB, and UVC. UVC, however, is mostly absorbed by the Earth’s ozone layer, so we don’t need extra protection from it.
  • UVA – Ultraviolet A is the more prevalent, more skin-penetrating type of sun radiation. It’s what you use for tanning, but it can also cause premature skin aging, wrinkles, cell damage, and skin cancer.
  • UVB – Ultraviolet B, the less-penetrating solar radiation, mostly affects the skin’s outer layer. It is, however, the chief culprit behind sunburns. UVB may not be strong enough to fully go through clouds and glass, but when you’re too exposed to it, it can still damage your skin cells.
  • Water-resistant – This is a type of sunscreen that stays effective for 40 or 80 minutes after you get water on you, like when you swim or sweat. P.S. Don’t be fooled by labels that say “waterproof” sunscreen, because there’s no such thing! All sunscreens lose effectiveness after a certain period of washing off.

Surprising Facts About Sunscreen and SPF

The highest SPF value isn’t always the best pick.

While it’s true that higher SPFs offer greater sun protection, the amount of radiation you’re shielded from doesn’t rise in a straight line. Confusing, right? To understand this, just look at this chart of how much UVB radiation is blocked by each SPF value:

  • SPF 15 – blocks 93 percent of UVB
  • SPF 30 – blocks 97 percent of UVB
  • SPF 50 – blocks 98 percent of UVB
  • SPF 100 – blocks 99 percent of UVB.

You can see that these SPF levels actually provide such similar protections that the differences are pretty much negligible. In fact, experts say SPF 50 or 100 might not be the best buy for an outdoor trip. According to various institutions, including the American Skin Cancer Foundation, SPF 30 is sufficient protection for basking in the sun – with proper usage, of course.

Think of this whenever you’re guilt-tripped into spending more for a higher-SPF sunscreen.

Not all sunscreens protect from UVA rays.

Unfortunately, just because you got sunscreen on doesn’t mean you’re fully safe from skin cancer. Some sunscreens only shield you from UVB, leaving you exposed to cancer-causing UVA rays. To mitigate this, check the labels when choosing your sunscreen and look for one with “broad spectrum” protection. This blocks both UVA and UVB rays.

SPF doesn’t measure all sun protection.

SPF measures only UVB protection, not UVA. Currently, scientists are ironing out ways to accurately measure a product’s UVA protection, but there is yet to be a standard unit that’s universally accepted.

What this means for beachgoers and day-trippers everywhere is that SPF is not the only word you should look for in a label. To ensure you’re shielded from harmful UVA as well, look for broad-spectrum mineral ingredients, especially zinc oxide. Research has shown that zinc oxide is a powerful substance that physically shields your skin from both UVA and UVB.

Are Sunscreens Dangerous? Clarifying the Health Risks

If you’ve been researching sun protection, you’ve probably read scary articles that may make you think twice about using sunscreen. One study, for example, detected carcinogenic (cancer-causing) compounds in suncare products. Another oft-cited research saw that chemical sunscreen ingredients – namely avobenzone, ecamsule, octocrylene, and oxybenzone – were absorbed into the bloodstream.

So are sunscreens dangerous to human health? Not if you choose right, say scientists.

The health risks linked to sunscreens mostly revolve around chemical ingredients. As we mentioned above, chemical sunscreens are those that use molecules to absorb rather than block UV rays. They’re ubiquitous in the market, but the thing is, scientists can’t definitely conclude yet whether these chemicals are safe for overall human health. Existing studies give us a clue about their safety, but there is no scientific consensus yet.

The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) released a statement in 2021 saying they cannot say that certain chemical sunscreen ingredients are “generally recognized as safe and effective” (GRASE). If you can, avoid these non-GRASE ingredients in sunscreen:

  • Aminobenzoic acid (PABA) – safety issues found by the FDA
  • Avobenzone
  • Cinoxate
  • Dioxybenzone
  • Ensulizole
  • Homosalate
  • Meradimat
  • Octinoxate
  • Octisalate
  • Octocrylene
  • Oxybenzone
  • Padimate O
  • Sulisobenzone
  • Trolamine salicylate – safety issues found by the FDA.

Some of the most common sunscreen ingredients are on this non-GRASE list, including avobenzone, oxybenzone, octinoxate, and octisalate.

So if chemical sunscreens are not definitely safe, what is the safe sunscreen choice? Dermatologists recommend going for physical sunscreens instead. These are suncare products that physically block the sun using mineral ingredients like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. Under FDA standards, these two ingredients are generally recognized as safe and effective.

If you asked skincare experts which mineral is better as sunscreen, they’ll likely say zinc oxide. As a 2023 study puts it, zinc oxide is “considered to be a more reliable and safer option” than titanium dioxide because:

    • Zinc oxide is broader spectrum – it can absorb more UVA rays than titanium dioxide can
    • Zinc oxide (in nanoparticle form) is more stable and thus longer-lasting than titanium dioxide, and
    • Zinc oxide is less likely than titanium dioxide to penetrate skin layers.

This clarifies so much of the scare around sunscreens. Not all sunscreen lotions and creams are iffy. If you want a safe and effective sunscreen product, avoid chemical ingredients and opt for a zinc oxide one instead.

Frequently Asked Questions About Sunscreen and SPF

What’s the difference between sunscreen and sunblock?

The skincare industry loosely uses the term “sunscreen” to mean chemical sunscreens, as in those that absorb UV rays. Meanwhile, “sunblock” is a term for physical sunscreens – those that physically block UVA and UVB. So we can say that sunblock is a type of sunscreen that literally blocks the sun’s rays.

What SPF number should I get?

The American Skin Cancer Foundation says SPF 30 is adequate for an extended stay outdoors. You can always go for higher SPF if you feel like you need it. Just remember that the increase in protection is minimal. What matters more is that you apply and reapply it correctly.

Do I need sunscreen when it’s cloudy outside?

Yup, you still need sunscreen even when the weather is cloudy. You may not get sunburnt because the clouds somewhat block UVB rays, but there still exists the risk of skin cancer from the more-penetrating UVA rays.

Does sunscreen prevent skin cancer?

Sunscreens lower the risk of skin cancer. Scientists agree that no amount or level of sunscreen can completely ward off solar radiation. Knowing this, it’s wise to combine sunscreen with other sun protection measures such as staying in the shade whenever feasible, wearing sunglasses, and avoiding midday tanning.

Does sunscreen cause vitamin D deficiency?

Not exactly. While it’s true that sunscreens shield you from sunlight that could have helped your body produce vitamin D, sun exposure is not the only way to get this nutrient. You can obtain healthy levels of vitamin D through foods like fatty fish (mackerel, salmon, and tuna), milk and dairy, egg yolks, animal liver, and fortified juices. If you need more, you can also take vitamin D supplements, which are widely available.

Doctors actually remind us not to rely on sun exposure for vitamin D. You don’t want to risk skin cancer when there are better options to nourish yourself.

Should I apply sunscreen before or after my moisturizer?

Apply sunscreen last in your daytime skincare regimen so it goes on top of your moisturizer. This allows your skin to absorb the moisturizer while getting your sun-blocking shield on top of everything. Want to know more about the order of product application? Read our handy blog post here!

Do I need to reapply if my sunscreen is water-resistant?

Absolutely. Even water-resistant sunscreens can be washed off after a while. Some stay on for 40 minutes, others for 80 minutes. Read and follow the product directions of your specific brand.

Is zinc oxide safe for the lips?

Yes! Zinc oxide is in fact a safe ingredient in many lip balms and lip care products. Try our top-rated petroleum-free lip balms at Glowing Orchid!

Coconut & Vanilla Cream Lip Balm Front Glowing Orchid Organics

Coconut and Vanilla Lip Balm (sun-blocking with zinc oxide) – A highly moisturizing, long-lasting lip balm with the delicious scent of vanilla and coconuts. Puts you in tropical vacation mode!

100% Natural Naked Unscented Lip Balm Front Glowing Orchid Organics

Naked Lip Balm (sun-blocking with zinc oxide) – Ultra-hydrating vegan blend with shea butter, cocoa butter, vitamin E, and more. No added scent. Perfect for everyday use, even on sensitive lips!

Key Takeaways: Your Sunscreen/SPF Essential
Shopping Tips

  • Grab SPF 30 for a typical outdoor trip. (Apply and reapply as directed!)
  • Go for sunscreen labeled “broad spectrum.”
  • Check ingredients: zinc oxide is ideally one of them.
  • Complement your sunscreen with other sun-protective habits. (Stay shaded when possible!)
  • Shop Glowing Orchid for sun-blocking lip balms that are highly rated by customers like you!

Hope this helps you choose the right sunscreen and enjoy the bright outdoors! Where are you guys headed this summer? Any summer tips? Leave a comment – I’d love to hear them!

xx

Judit

 

Further reading:

Understanding Sunscreen | Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center

Sunscreens: Protect Your Skin - Health Encyclopedia - University of Rochester Medical Center

What does the SPF rating really mean? - Curious

Is Sunscreen Bad for You?

Sunblock vs. sunscreen: Which one should you use?



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